My mom used to steam them.  Somehow before steaming, she managed to jam in a bit of stuffing among the leaves.  I think she used 4C Italian style bread crumbs.  We didn't have them often, so I assume it was a lot of work.

Then to eat one, you pluck off each leaf and (this is difficult to describe) scrap off the bottom 1/4 inch of each leaf (along with stuffing) with your teeth.  After all the big dark green leaves are off, you're left with a bunch of softer light green ones, which you might discard.  Then there's a hull left, which my father would eat whole, but I would need to scoop out the "hairs" before eating the rest.

It's very weird, now that I come to think about it.

place on a steamer or boil in water......
I love taking off the leaves one by one and dipping the edible part in a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice and spices!!

when I get to the heart, it s a whole treat, once you take off the tiny hair on the base......delicious!!
don t forget to have a glass of mineral water after.....the taste is indescribable!!