My mom used to steam them. Somehow before steaming, she managed to jam in a bit of stuffing among the leaves. I think she used 4C Italian style bread crumbs. We didn't have them often, so I assume it was a lot of work.
Then to eat one, you pluck off each leaf and (this is difficult to describe) scrap off the bottom 1/4 inch of each leaf (along with stuffing) with your teeth. After all the big dark green leaves are off, you're left with a bunch of softer light green ones, which you might discard. Then there's a hull left, which my father would eat whole, but I would need to scoop out the "hairs" before eating the rest.
It's very weird, now that I come to think about it.